Over a period of about 6 weeks so far this Spring, our family has had the joy of watching an astounding attribute of creation unveil before our eyes.

Digging out our trees at Vintage VA Apples last year It all began a little over a year ago when Dad, Daniel, and I were blessed to attend a course of apple grafting with Vintage Virginia Apples just south of Charlottesville, Virginia. Under the first class training of Mr. Tom Burford and the Shelton family, all 3 of us were trained in the skill of bench grafting.

During the second week of April, we took on the grafting of 10 apple trees. One month prior, we ordered 10 Malling-Merton 111 (MM. 111) root stocks from Vintage Virginia. Clippings (scion wood) from branches 2 years or older were carefully selected from 3 different locations of mature trees and stored with lightly moistened paper towels in our refrigerator. We worked together to try and keep all fruit, especially apples, out of the fridge to keep the gas emitted from fruits from causing the scion wood to bud prematurely.

The grafting process involves the following steps:

Sizing up a piece of scionwood with a rootstock

1. Select a root stock that is similar in diameter to the scion wood you are using (leave root stock in bag for as long as possible to reduce the possibility of damage from exposure). Removing 1 inch off the bottom of the scionwood

2. Cut out a portion of scion wood with 2-3 buds at least 1 inch from either end to avoid any dried out portion.

3. Slice a 45 degree angle atleast 1/2 inch long Using a sharpened knife, slice the scion wood about 3/4 to 1 inch below the first bud at a 45 degree angle. The face should be at least 1/2 inch long.

4. Slice a mirror cutting on the root stock approximately 1-2 inches above the roots (room for mistakes :-) ).

Gently make a 1/2 to 3/4 inch cut into the center of the face 5. In the center of each face gently cut a 1/4 to 1/2 inch cutting parallel to the pieces’ grain.

6. Gently force the two pieces into one another to form an union. An ideal slice Should the scion wood be smaller in diameter than the rootstock, be sure to align the cambium layers on at least one side.

A well grafted union with few gaps and so less chance of fatal exposure. 7. Using a tape such as masking or blue painting tape, completely cover the union to deter This union is ok, but could be better drying out before healing.

8. Using a waterproofing substance like Doc Farwell’s Grafting Seal, seal the very top of the newly grafted tree.

9. Label the  tree and store in a cool location until outdoor temperatures are well above freezing. Should the grafting All trees have been successfully grafted take place after the final frost, still allow approximately 7-14 days for the healing to take place before potting. During the healing period, keep grafted trees in a plastic bag (ziploc is perfect). Apply moisture every couple days so roots do not dry out.

10. After the healing period, place tree(s) in nutrient rich soil. Keep soil moist. Budding may take up to 2-3 weeks. Beware of small rodents which will destroy the young tree with little effort. I prefer to keep tree well protected for at least 1 year before planting in orchard.

Stay tuned for post number two which will feature the progress of the newly grafted trees.

Abide in me, and I in you. As the branch cannot bear fruit of itself, except it abide in the vine; no more can ye, except ye abide in me. I am the vine, ye are the branches: He that abideth in me, and I in him, the same bringeth forth much fruit: for without me ye can do nothing (John 15:4-5).

This entry was posted on Tuesday, May 20th, 2008 at 9:45 pm and is filed under Farming 101. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.